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In honour of this country’s shockingly strong performance in Beijing, let’s put together a new Team GB, London Fashion Week-style.
It’s impossible to skip Stella McCartney, with her second collection for Adidas. Balancing on cobblestones in stilettos with swag bags in one hand and a real handbag in the other should be considered a sport, but Macca’s little precious took fashion athleticism a step further by having her models run on treadmills and hit the balance beam. Think grey leggings, white hooded warm-ups and bodysuits in a darker shade of orange than seen on other catwalks this season.
Although her models didn’t exactly look like weightlifters (you’re fabulous, Chanel Iman), Nicole Farhi included loose, sheer sleeves with quite a few of her dresses. Perfect for those days when it’s too chilly to go completely sleeveless, but still warm enough to show off those biceps. But in seriousness, her belted trenches – with huge, huge lapels – should be a hit, as should one particular suit outfit with red trousers, a navy jacket and a white pussy-bow blouse offered just enough masculinity to her overall-delicate collection. In some spots, Farhi’s show was arguably a less tailored mishmash of Oscar de la Renta prints with Marc Jacobs granny, but beekeeper-type hats aside, it was almost all demurely wearable.
Emma Cook makes the team (after a two-season break) for what looked like a camel-coloured sheath dress with an extra three layers of ruffles added from bust to hip, and Eley Kishimoto gave a patriotic flair to the ruffle trend from New York on a sheer camisole done up with red, white and blue stripes. No one could overlook Christopher Kane, with his “prehistoric”, 3D organza-“scaled” skirts.
But the overall gold medal goes to Afshin Feiz, whose intricate ruffles, pleating and asymmetrical cut outs should make him London’s next big thing, if anyone has any sense. If London Fashion Week does have to cut its schedule down to four days next year, he should keep people coming to this city. His backless gowns connected nape of the neck to small of the back with loose, metal-studded straps. His plain, cream-coloured blouses weren’t so plain with dozens of gathers and bunches to add texture. This man can even make pleat-front tan trousers sexy. Think Marchesa plus bikers plus cupcake-chic.
As for sweets, which often are contraband for athletes and the fashion squad alike, check our London style blog for details of The Met’s Fashion Candy Party. Simple cards and Givenchy were both welcome.
– Jill Hilbrenner
