The highlight of the day might have been a surprise Emma Watson appearance at William Tempest‘s packed show – or Friendly Fires performing at the Mulberry party – but Monday started fairly simply, with designed Avsh Alom Gur finally finding his bearings at Ossie Clark. Buzz about the designer who braved to revive the ’70s cult label was mixed last season, though this time, the chatter in the media lounge seems to be nicer.
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Luella (2008 British Designer of the Year) marched out a set of military-tinged prom dresses and skirt suits, followed by Erdem doing wonders with black lace appliques and custom-printed textiles in a collection that earned him a reference as the ‘Christian Lacroix of London’ by renowned writer Sarah Mower of Style.com.
Mulberry staged short presentations at its New Bond Street business office and worked the theme of good girl gone bad to the max. With creepy-crawly beetles all over the wall and Wicked Witch music in the background (and thank goodness, some of the best hospitality at any show so far), models showed a collection of 60s-silhouette mini dresses and Camden-appropriate, grungy layering that cleverly complements the gritty direction many designers are taking. Even better, it’s the only show where I’ve seen a model walk out with a well dressed canine companion.
Knitwear star Louise Goldin turned out a series of all-black mini dresses that feel somewhere between ‘jumper’ and ‘leather-clad fembot’, before Giles Deacon used a mix of ’80s supermodels and Camden locals to present a beautifully embellished, if slightly hard to follow, collection of conceptual leather skirts and fur-and-metallic evening dresses.
All this, and then there was the London Fashion Week International Party and the Estethica Global Cool Party. Maybe it’s a good thing fashion week ends today, because the supply of Sugar-Free Red Bull in the tent has already run out an alarming number of times.
– Jill Hilbrenner
